Publication date: October 25, 2022
Bathed by the sea, warmed by the volcano, it is the grape variety at the heart of Etna’s wine renaissance thanks to the work of bold and visionary winemakers
It is one of the undisputed protagonists of Etna’s wine renaissance, an extraordinary terroir capable of giving wines elegance and minerality. A native Sicilian white grape variety, Carricante – today the base of Etna Bianco D.O.C. (60%) and Etna Bianco Superiore D.O.C. (80%) – has been cultivated since ancient times on the hilly and sandy slopes of the volcano which, on one hand, nourish it with rock, minerals, and ash, and on the other expose it to the sea, which ensures freshness and sapidity to the wine.
In this territory, characterized by a cool climate and wide temperature variations – Carricante can grow up to 950 meters above sea level – which give the grapes intense scents and aromas, some winemakers have decided to focus on this native grape variety enhancing it with pure productions and aiming for extreme quality in all stages of processing, from the vineyard to the cellar.
“GORNA,” Boniviri’s Etna Bianco D.O.C produced by the Eudes farm, is one of these, capable of expressing all the potential of Carricante which manifests in a refined and elegant wine, deeply mineral, with good acidity and a rich bouquet of aromas dominated by fruity notes of apple, orange blossom, and anise. A wine that can be aged in steel to enhance its freshness, but also has good structure and, for this reason, can age gracefully for up to ten years.
The work of bold and visionary winemakers like Giovanni Messina – owner of the Eudes farm – has transformed this high-yielding grape variety – Carricante actually derives from the Sicilian dialect expression “u carricanti,” referring to its abundant production capable of filling carts with grapes – into a solo grape variety and the star of wines with great personality. This was not without sacrifices, because to obtain quality grapes with good aromatic concentration, strict pruning and frequent bud inspections are required.
The story of Carricante on Etna is a revolution. From the ground up, gentle, collective. Yet no less explosive than the volcano that hosts it. A revolution that we at Boniviri, with our sustainable agriculture project, are proud to support by enhancing the work of small excellent realities like Eudes, which every day lead it with passion, courage, and determination.
