Carricante and the story of a gentle revolution

by Davide Tammaro

Published date: October 25, 2022

Bathed by the sea, warmed by the volcano, it is the vine that is the protagonist of the Etna wine renaissance thanks to the work of bold and visionary winemakers

It is one of the undisputed protagonists of the Etna wine renaissance, terroir extraordinary capable of giving wines elegance and minerality. Native Sicilian white grape variety, the Loading – today at the base of the Etna Bianco DOC (60%) and the Etna Bianco Superiore DOC (80%) – has been grown since ancient times on the hilly and sandy slopes of the volcano which, on the one hand, nourish it with rock, minerals and ash, but on the other, expose it to the sea, which ensures freshness and flavour to the wine.

In this territory, characterized by a cool climate and wide temperature variations - the Carricante can grow up to 950 meters above sea level - which give the grapes intense perfumes and aromas, some winemakers have decided to focus on this native vine. enhancing it with pure productions and aiming for extreme quality in all stages of production, from the vineyard to the cellar.

“GORNA”, Etna Bianco DOC of Boniviri produced by the Eudes agricultural company, is one of these, capable of expressing all the potential of Carricante which manifests itself in fine and elegant wine, deeply mineral, with good acidity and a rich bouquet of aromas in which fruity sensations of apple, orange blossom and anise predominate. A wine that can be refined in steel to enhance its freshness, but also has a good structure and, for this reason, capable of aging without wrinkles even up to ten years.

The work of bold and visionary winemakers as John Messina – owner of the Eudes farm – has transformed this generously yielding vine – Carricante derives, in fact, from the Sicilian dialect expression “u carricanti”, due to its abundant production capable of filling carts with grapes – in a solo vine and protagonist of wines with great personality. Not without sacrifices, because to obtain quality grapes with good aromatic concentration, severe pruning and strict and frequent checks of the buds are required.

The story of Carricante on Etna is the story of a revolution. From below, kind, collective. And yet, no less explosive than the volcano that hosts it. A revolution that we at Boniviri, with our sustainable agriculture project, are proud to support by valorizing the work of small excellent businesses like Eudes that, every day, guide it with passion, courage and determination.

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