Mamertino, the rediscovery of the emperor wine

by Davide Tammaro

Celebrated by Pliny, loved by Caesar, this ancient wine originally from the territory of the city of Messina, has been recovered and enhanced in recent years thanks to the patient work of small local winemakers

Every success deserves its wine. To celebrate his consulate, Julius Caesar chose the Sicilian Mamertino . The roots of Mamertino - one of the oldest wines in history - are in the territory of Milazzo, precisely in the current province of Messina. Deep roots that date back to 289 BC, when the Mamertines, mercenary soldiers of Campanian origin, famous for having played a leading role in the outbreak of the first Punic war, after the death of Agathocles, tyrant of Syracuse, treacherously took over Messina, transforming the city from an agricultural and commercial center into a base for their pirate raids.

The Messina area is particularly suited to the cultivation of vines , thanks to the warm Mediterranean climate, always mitigated by sea breezes, and hilly terrain, between 100 and 350 metres above sea level, predominantly clayey and with the presence of volcanic rocks, very suitable for the cultivation of red grape varieties.

Despite the terroir particularly favorable for the production of wines and its success in ancient times - Strabo considered Mamertino among the best wines of the time, while Pliny ranked it fourth among 195 wines then known. – this wine was at risk of disappearing from the Sicilian wine scene. Today, in fact, its extensions are reduced to a few hectares of vineyards.

In September 2004 the denomination Mamertino di Milazzo DOC was created , which extends over 31 municipalities in the province of Messina and includes 6 grape varieties: four white grapes - Grillo, Inzolia and Catarratto - and two red grapes - Nocera and Nero d'Avola. But the decisive contribution came from small local producers, including Vigna Nica, who were able to network by founding the Doc Mamertino Association (ADM) in 2019. These are small family businesses, with an average of 3 or 4 hectares per business and an overall annual production of around 100 thousand bottles. Families who, with their patient and heroic work, have brought Mamertino back (finally) to the center of the wine news.

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